Following the clarification of the hair, the extensions are planned, the hair sectioned and – working from top to bottom – the first row is applied. Triangular sections, without gaps between and thus maximising bulk but minimising bond thickness, are taken
The extension hair is withdrawn from the drawing mats, and the various colours blended in the fingers. The hot bonding agent is applied to the extension hair, and the extension is then applied beneath the receiving section. Care is taken to avoid overloading the section – i.e. the thickness of the extension should never exceed that of the receiving section.
The bonding agent is then moulded within a special Silicon rubber pad, thus sealing the extension hair into the receiving section. A neat bond, impervious to shampoo and conditioner, is formed. Since the extension is applied away from the scalp, it is evenly supported, thus avoiding the problem of root lift, which causes uneven tension and risks breakage during brushing.
The first row is completed. The extensions are then checked for complete mobility in all directions, ‘cross hairs’ (stray hairs from one extension that may have become inadvertently bonded in another) and ‘root lift.’
Shows the final row. It is important not to continue further down into the nape – an area where the hair is likely to be weaker and the scalp more tender.
The extensions have all been applied – the rows are again meticulously inspected. Any substandard extensions can be removed easily and replaced at this stage.
The hair is carefully brushed through, starting at the tips and finishing into the scalp. With bonded extensions, it is possible to do this without any problems at all, provided that a brush with the correct bristle stiffness is used. The extension hair is carefully blended into the clients own using a razor.
